Lock it or lose it

At home when you live in a private house

Point 1
The bike can never be left outside.

Point 2
The bike must be kept inside. This can include the house, a garage, a wooden shed and a steel bike container.

Point 3
If the bike is inside the house you do not have to chain or lock it up. However, all doors and windows must be locked so that potential thieves would have to use force and violence to enter your home.

Point 4
If the bike is inside a garage, shed or container, they must be solid e.g. keeping it in a tent will not count (people have tried!) and there are two options to secure it:

1. Secure the garage, shed or container door using the manufacturers installed locks.
2. Use a 5-lever mortice dead lock or a 5-pin padlock on the door of the garage, shed or container.

Again, all doors and windows to the shed, container or garage will need to be locked so that potential thieves would have to use force and violence to break in.

At home when you live in a flat

Point 1
The bike can never be left outside of the flat, even if it is secured with a chain or lock to a bike rack.

Point 2
The bike can be kept in a communal hallway inside the building, but it must be locked to an immovable object such as a radiator or metal rail. The lock must meet our bike lock requirements.

Point 3
The bike can be kept in an underground carpark; however, the carpark must be secure, for example a barrier or key is needed to gain entry to the car park. Only residents of the building should have access to the carpark. The bike must then be locked to an immovable object such as a bike rack. The lock must meet our bike lock requirements.

Point 4
The bike can be kept inside a communal bike locker or shed, but the bike must be locked to an immovable object such as a bike rack. The lock must meet our bike lock requirements.

Point 5
The bike can be kept on a balcony but it must not be accessible from the ground floor. The bike must then be locked to an immovable object such as a railing. The lock must meet our bike lock requirements.

At home when you live in a shared house

Point 1
The bike can never be left outside.

Point 2
The bike must be kept inside (in the house, a garage, a wooden shed, a steel bike container).

Point 3
If the bike is inside the house you do not have to chain or lock the bike up, however it must be kept in your room which has its own lock and key. Your door and any windows must be locked so that potential thieves would have to use force and violence to break in to your room. If you aren’t able to lock your room, see rule 4.

Point 4
The bike can be kept inside any communal area of the shared house e.g. the hallway but it must be locked to an immovable object such as a radiator. The lock must meet our bike lock requirements.

Point 5
If the bike is inside a shared storage area such as a garage, shed or container it should be locked to an immovable object inside it such as a ground anchor. The lock must meet our bike lock requirements.

Again, all doors and windows to the shed, container or garage will need to be locked so potential thieves would have to use force and violence to break in.

Point 1
Do not leave your bike for more than 24 hours.

Point 2
Always lock the bike to an immovable object such as a railing or bike rack. The lock must meet our bike lock requirements.

Point 3
The lock must be secured through your bike frame and any quick release wheels. If you only secure the bike through the wheel, the chances are you will only be left with that wheel when you come back!

Point 4
If your workplace has a shed or building to store bikes, your bike must still be locked to an immovable object within the shed or building. The lock must meet our bike lock requirements.

Point 1
Do not leave your bike for more than 12 hours if left anywhere apart from a train or bus station.

Point 2
Do not leave your bike for more than 24 hours if it is at a train or bus station.

Point 3
Always lock the bike to an immovable object such as a railing or bike rack. The lock must meet our bike lock requirements.

Point 4
The lock must be secured through your bike frame and any quick release wheels. If you only secure the bike through the wheel, the chances are you will only be left with that wheel when you come back!

Point 1
All doors, windows and convertible roof of the vehicle must be closed and locked so that potential thieves would have to use force and violence to break in.

Point 2
The bike can be secured on a bike/roof rack, but it must be locked to the bike/roof rack with a lock that meets our bike lock requirements.

Point 3
The bike can be kept inside of the vehicle.

Point 1
If you are leaving the bike in a vehicle you must follow the rules above for "storing your bike in a vehicle".

Point 2
If you are in a hotel or B&B, you must follow the rules above for "Storing your bike whilst out" or "Storing your bike in a vehicle", depending on where the bike is being kept.

Point 3
If you are in your own private holiday home, caravan, or chalet, you must follow the rules for "Storing your bike at home when you live in a private house" or "Storing your bike in a vehicle" depending on where the bike is being kept.

Point 4
Follow the rules for "Storing your bike whilst out" when you are out and about on holiday.

The majority of bike locks are rated on a ‘Sold Secure’ scale and are given a rating of Bronze, Silver, Gold or Diamond. Unsurprisingly, Bronze is the weakest and Diamond is the strongest.

What you must realise is that bike insurance policies won’t pay out on your stolen bike if you use anything less than an approved locking device at the required level.

While it’s not always an indicator on quality, in the bike lock world, generally you get what you pay for. A cheap lock will offer little resistance to a thief. A good bike lock will cost in the region of £30 to £50.

Bike locks don’t come sturdier than this. It is generally accepted that U locks (or D locks whatever way you look at them) are the most durable and the first choice of security for many cyclists.

You’d think that the larger the U lock the better, but this allows the thief to manoeuvre in and around your bike and create enough leverage to force open a lock. Smaller ones give less room to 'do the job'. They are also lighter to carry. And don't think a smaller u-lock isn't as strong. The thickness of the lock isn't dependant on the overall size.

Chain locks are robust and heavy – the majority of chain saws won’t be able to chew their way through it. However, such a heavy chain requires an extremely strong padlock. This is the weak point of the lock and catches out many cyclists. Look for one that is made from hardened steel. Remember, the chain is only as strong as the lock.

While cable locks may be light to carry and easy to transport on your bike, they are susceptible. They can be cut through and the locking mechanism is ‘easy’ for a thief to break. It’s also best to steer clear of combination bike locks. Combinations can be worked out – why give the opportunist thief a chance?

It rains a lot in the UK so it’s important that your bike lock is weather proof. A rusty lock can weaken locking mechanisms and cause damage to the key barrel, which again, could leave it susceptible. It’s very hard to find a completely water tight seal, but if you can, try and buy a lock that has some sort of weather resistance to it.

Once you’ve purchased the lock, you need to keep the receipt as proof of purchase. You should also keep any packaging and take photographs of the lock which clearly shows the make of lock, together with your bike. This information will support any future claim you may need to make.

Don’t lock your bike down a darkly lit road – you are simply inviting a thief to try and take it. Secure it in a well-lit area, where people are constantly passing. If you can, keep an eye out for CCTV and lock it close by.

Lock the frame, front and back wheel to the object you have secured it to. If you only have one lock, remove the front wheel, and then lock both together with the frame. Ensure the U lock is securely fastened. Don’t leave it hanging loose between the bike and the object you have locked it to as this will allow the thief more manoeuvrability in and around your bike to create enough leverage to force open the lock.

The word ‘different’ is the important factor here. Two different types of locks mean that thief will need to use two different types of tools to prise them open. While it is possible, it’s highly unlikely a thief will have a number of high-end tools with them. One U lock and a chain lock is a worthy opponent for any bike thief.

If you can, take all accessories with you. A bicycle is far less appealing without lights and wheels attached to it. A lot of thieves steal bikes and literally ride off on them. Remove the seat post too, and it makes it incredibly hard for a thief to take off. Remember if you’re worried, you can get insurance cover for your cycling accessories. Now you know how best to use the lock, find out more about how to buy the best bike lock.

Once you’ve purchased the lock, you need to keep the receipt as proof of purchase. You should also keep any packaging and take photographs of the lock which clearly shows the make of lock, together with your bike. This information will support any future claim you may need to make.

Make sure you always choose a fixed, immovable object to lock your bike to, that is fitted onto or into concrete, stone, brick or metal which is not capable of being undone, removed with, or lifted under or over the bicycle, or a purpose built bicycle or roof rack which is fitted securely to a motor vehicle, using an Approved Lock.

Remember: The lock must be placed through the frame to the immovable object and any quick release wheels.

If wheels are ‘FIXED’ (i.e. not quick release):

Attach the Approved Lock around the frame and the immovable object (examples: point A OR B).

If one or both wheels are QUICK RELEASE:

Attach the Approved Lock around the rear wheel, removed front wheel, the frame and the immovable object (point C)